boltholes) which will help you line it up later when applying the grip. Make sure to take note of important features (e.g. So you've decided where to place your design? Start by tracing the section of your board where the design will go. Avoid the bolt-holes - poking hardware through a particularly delicate part of your design, then having it twist and settle as you skate is a good way to rip it. Sharp points flick up easily - think like how the corners of a bandaid are rounded to help it stick. TIPS: Do bear in mind though that it is a lot quicker to cut a few bigger, straighter edged holes than many smaller, more rounded ones. As you can see in the above photo, it came with just two bits of griptape slapped onto the kicks. For this instructable we will be working with a dancer - the Landyachtz Stratus. I try to create as many connections between the shapes as possible, and I tend towards symmetrical (but still free-handed) and repetitive patterns. This is part of the reason why most of my designs are influenced by lacework/doilies and mandala-like designs. Delicate designs with lots of cut away detail and thin strips of grip will not stand up well to being kicked and twisted. You will have much more design space to work with on a dancer, however you must also consider the increased amount of foot movement. This reduces wear on your shoes as you'll be moving around a lot, and also helps you to pivot on a point. Many dancers these days only come with grip on the kicktails, and nothing on pretty much the whole standing platform. Dancing/freestyle boards on the other hand are quite the opposite. See the attached pictures for examples of this. I have placed DH grip designs on the nose, tail (it wasn't a functional tail, but I probably wouldn't do this again anyhow), and middle of various boards. Think about how wide your stance is, and whether you are goofy (right foot forward) or regular (left foot forward). Any cut out sections for a DH grip design should therefore not interfere with where you will be standing, especially since we'll be using regular griptape for this (it's much easier to cut, trust me). DH grip is much coarser than normal street grip, and some skaters even drill screws through their boards from the bottom up to really lock their feet into place on the spikes. For example, downhill (DH) boards require much more grip than most other boards, as you do not want your feet slipping around when predrifting a corner. Cutting away sections of the griptape will obviously create areas where you'll have less traction between your shoe and the deck. What type of board do you have? Think about the kind of riding you will be doing on it - dancing/freestyle, downhill, freeriding, street, or just cruising? Different types of skateboarding require grip (or a lack thereof) in different places, and this will affect what kind of design would best suit your board.
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